THE FAR SOUTHEAST SIDE (ROSELAND, PULLMAN, SOUTH DEERING, ALTGELD GARDENS, AND SOUTH CHICAGO)

September 14, 2021 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Before Chicago’s Southeast side became formally settled and industrialized, native tribes such as the Algonquin, Illini, Potawatomi, and Miami utilized the Calumet River for hunting and navigating the area. With the addition of adjacent rail in the 1850s, the river became an industrial hub and was quickly lined with grain elevators and steel mills. Just to the west of the river’s original natural branch and Lake Calumet, engineer and emerging capitalist George Pullman envisioned and developed a ‘utopian’ factory town where workers would live in a healthier social and physical environment with the intent of deterring strikes and unrest. By the 1880s, with the help of architect Solon Spencer Beman, the town of Pullman consisted of the Pullman Palace Car factory, a hotel, a town square, parks, schools, a theater, a library, and blocks of over a thousand attached brick row houses with modern conveniences such as indoor plumbing and gas. The initial outsider praise of and admiration for workers’ living conditions dissipated after the 1894 strike and boycott, which highlighted the cuts in wages without any reduction in rent and the fact that workers could not independently own any of the existing residential properties. The national rail worker strike that originated in Pullman eventually led to President Grover Cleveland introducing Labor Day as a federal holiday. Likewise, exploitive conditions for Pullman Porters and maids led to the formation of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters and Maids, which was the first African-American labor union chartered by the AFL and first to win a collective bargaining agreement with a major corporation. As Pullman transitioned into a more typical working class neighborhood in the decades that followed the 1894 strike, Southeast side neighborhoods developed overwhelmingly around the burgeoning steel industry. Four of the largest mills were Pressed Steel in Hegewisch, Republic Steel in East Side, Wisconsin Steel in South Deering, and United States Steel South Works in South Chicago. Other industry in the area included grain mills, shipbuilding, and the Ford Motor plant, which is still in operation on the Calumet River in Hegewisch.

Grassroots efforts by neighborhood groups successfully staved off demolition of Pullman’s surviving structures and the entire district was awarded National Historic Landmark status in 1971. Steadily over the last several decades, many of the homes and remaining structures have been restored and renovated. Since President Obama designated the area a national monument in 2015, ambitious plans to further restore structures have ramped up, including converting the Clock Tower building into the monument’s visitor center in time for the grand opening on Labor Day 2021. Simultaneously, the broader Pullman neighborhood has emerged as a green reinvestment hub with the addition of the Method Soap Factory and Gotham Greens greenhouses. The advocacy and work of grassroots groups, environmental organizations, and the city have also been making strides to remediate large swaths of contaminated land formerly occupied by heavy industry in several Southeast Side neighborhoods. With the sustained resurgence of Pullman and the environmentally conscious remaking of the Calumet River area ecosystem, Chicago’s far Southeast side showcases many examples of both what’s worth fighting to preserve and reinvent.

A Great Day on the Far Southeast Side

Morning

A good spot to start a far Southeast excursion is dropping by Old Fashioned Donuts in Roseland. For nearly 50 years, Buriitt Bulloch has been perfecting his fried dough concoctions like the blueberry donut, pineapple and coconut donut, and his famous, substantial apple fritter. After picking up some donuts, it’s worth taking note of the gritty but largely intact S. Michigan Ave. commercial streetscape. Stretching from roughly 111th to 115th St., prewar structures of various architectural styles make the ‘The Avenue’ an ideal candidate for redevelopment in the city’s Invest South/West initiative. One catalyst for revitalization on the strip is 1921, a business incubator and co-working space in the repurposed commercial building at 11001 S. Michigan Ave. Taking its name from the year of the Tulsa race massacre, the space is inspired by Tulsa’s Black Wall Street and the business owners who had been thriving at the time.

Just one mile straight east is the Southeast side’s most well-known attraction. With the completion of the Clock Tower and Administrative Building conversion to the Pullman National Monument visitor’s center, the neighborhood is now welcoming a surge in interest and foot traffic. Heading south from the new visitor’s center, the Hotel Florence overlooks Pullman and Arcade Parks. Opening in 1881, the hotel had parlors, a barber shop, and Pullman’s only bar, which were all only open to guests. At the southeast corner of Arcade Park, the stone clad Greenstone Methodist Church was completed in 1882. Though envisioned by George Pullman as a venue to pacify all Christian denominations, the church served as a hub for support of the workers strike in 1894.

Continuing two blocks to the southeast, Market Square was Pullman’s center of commerce in the 1880s with various stalls in the Market Hall building. After a fire destroyed the first Market Hall in 1892, the second iteration along with the four colonnaded buildings that frame the square rose in 1893. Plans to reactivate what remains of the second Market Hall will be revealed in the monument’s next phase.

Pullman’s most distinctive aesthetic is visible in the intact blocks of brick Queen Anne residences. The social stratification of the town was clearly delineated through the homes’ amenities and proximity to the main factory and town hub. Reserved for executives, the mansions along 111th Street have stand alone walls and are by far the largest. Fronting Arcade Park, the spacious 2-story townhomes on the 11100 block of St. Lawrence Ave. and 3-story row houses on 112th St. were constructed for skilled craftsmen. Moving further south or north (into North Pullman) from the factory building, several blocks of 14 and 16ft. wide single-family and multi-unit attached row homes housed the remaining workers and residents.

Though not always on visitors’ radar, North Pullman is integral to the reimagined Pullman experience. On the far north end of the S. Maryland Ave. row house block, The National A. Philip Randolph Pullman Porter Museum celebrates the struggle and achievements of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters (BSCP) and co-founder and chief organizer A. Philip Randolph. The museum’s exhibits highlight how the group’s contributions to labor and civil rights are indispensable to Pullman’s National Monument status. Continuing the neighborhood’s revitalization momentum, 35 vacant North Pullman row houses will see new life after being rehabbed through a collaboration between the city and development groups.

Afternoon

A great Far Southside outdoor destination is Big Marsh Park in South Deering. The former slag (steelmill waste) dump has been capped with clean dirt and clay and reconfigured as a park district biking and nature site. There are track runs for beginners up to experienced BMX riders as well as walking trails, picnic spots, and a nature play area. While more tracks, trails, and the city’s first campsites are in the pipeline, the most recent addition is the Ford Calumet Environmental Center. The facility is a resource for exploring nearby restored natural areas like Indian Ridge Marsh Park and Hegewisch Marsh Park as well as an environmental education center.

At the far south end of the city, at the Chicago Housing Authority site built for African-American WWII veterans, where a young Barack Obama was a community organizer, and Hazel Johnson, “The Mother of Environmental Justice” fought for clean air and drinking water for residents, Altgeld Gardens has been receiving several new enhancements to complement its historic public housing stock. The recently completed, curving Altgeld Family Resource Center is a new community anchor with a focus on sustainability. The net-zero ready facility houses a new Chicago Public Library branch and spacious interior and exterior children’s play areas. Developed and maintained by the non-profit the Urban Growers Collective, the Altgeld Gardens Community Farm consists of flowers, native grasses, and bee hives. Bookending Altgeld Gardens on its southern border, the National Park Service has included the Little Calumet River Freedom Trail as part of its designated Underground Railroad sites. Local abolitionists, the Jan Ton family, helped the plight of escaped slaves through their farm located near the Beaubien Woods Forest Preserve.

Evening

A Southeast Side staple is Calumet Fisheries. Located on the 95th St. Bridge (featured in the Blue Brothers car jump scene), the unassuming shack has garnered praise from culinary authorities ranging from Anthony Bourdain to the James Beard Foundation. Opened in 1948, the smokehouse maintains the tradition of brining the fish and seafood overnight and smoking with oak onsite.

Another notable park space is Steelworkers Park on the South Chicago lakefront. The remediated and capped slag runoff area features native grasses, a sculpture by South Chicago artist and resident Roman Villareal, and the remaining ore walls from the U.S. Steel plant that have been converted into a climbing wall. While experienced climbers can access the wall with their own equipment any time the park is open, the Chicago Park district offers more structured climbs and bouldering on Saturdays in the summer.

Featured Organizations

Urban Growers Collective

The non-profit founded in 2017 brings fresh produce grown at its 8 urban farms on the South and West Sides on remediated land. The South Chicago Farm has 30 plots for neighborhood growers and a Growing Dome that allows for food production in the the colder months.

Southeast Environmental Task Force

The grassroots organization was formed in 1989 to fight the Wisconsin Steel garbage incinerator and has been fighting for environmental justice for Southeast Side residents ever since. The organization provides eco-tours of all the remediation work that has transformed the toxic wastelands left over from industry to nature parks.

SkyART

The South Chicago nonprofit provides free arts eduction programming onsite and with partnering schools on the South and West Sides. Additionally, individual and small group art therapy sessions are available through their Project Impact program.

BRONZEVILLE

June 10, 2021 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Douglas, the community area that encompasses Bronzeville’s northern half, began as the property and home of Abraham Lincoln’s debating foe and slavery defender, Stephen A. Douglas. During the Civil War, the North established Camp Douglas on the premises as a POW camp detaining Confederate soldiers. By the 1880s the area had developed into a well-to-do Jewish enclave. Further south in the Grand Boulevard section of Bronzeville, many of Chicago’s elite, including stock yard barons the Swifts’ and vaudeville stars the Marx brothers established stately homes along the lavish boulevards. It wasn’t until the 1890s that the neighborhood began to transform into an extension of the African-American community that had been residing in the Near South Side. The subsequent decades saw Bronzeville’s absorption of an enormous wave of migrants escaping the Jim Crow south. What became known as the “Black Metropolis” had its heyday from roughly the 1910s through the 1940s. Rivaling the Harlem Renaissance, Bronzeville became Chicago’s epicenter of Black working, middle, and upper-class culture and establishments. Black-owned newspapers, restaurants, clubs, theaters, and other businesses of “the city within a city” were found on and around State Street between 30th and 35th (“The Stroll”) and 43rd Street and 47th Street between State Street and Cottage Grove Avenue. Though Bronzeville suffered considerable decline during the Great Depression, Chicago’s imposed segregation, redlining, and racial housing covenants were even more devastating to the area in the post-war decades. Under urban renewal between 1941 and 1970, Chicago Housing Authority (CHA) projects were constructed such as the Ida B. Wells Homes, Stateway Gardens, and the Robert Taylor Homes. In the last three decades, coinciding with these public housing projects being torn down, the neighborhood has seen tangible revitalization, mostly as a result of an influx of many middle and upper-class African-American professionals. There’s also been a burgeoning appreciation for its collection of historic landmarks, architectural gems, engaging cultural institutions, and prized African-American owned businesses.

A Great Day in Bronzeville

Morning

A Bronzeville day can start bright and early with a visit to Abundance Bakery on 47th St. between Michigan and Indiana Avenue. Open since 1990, the neighborhood institution is a crowd pleaser for their apple fritters and old-fashioned doughnuts. Another casual Grand Boulevard option, the cavernous yet welcoming Sip and Savor on 43rd St. is a popular community hub serving up Colectivo coffee and a variety of pastries and light breakfast options. A second Bronzeville location is now also open in a renovated storefront in the Rosenwald Apartment building on 47th. In 2019, Douglas gained Emeche Cakery & Cafe, offering a range of pastries (with vegan options), breakfast sandwiches, and caffeinated beverages.

For a more robust morning meal, there’s Chicago’s Home of Chicken and Waffles. Though the pairing of chicken and waffles has Southern origins, its common lore that the unlikely combo emerged as a favorite of Harlem and Bronzeville jazz musicians craving both dinner and breakfast after finishing their 3:00 or 4:00 AM sets. In addition to the chicken and waffles varieties named after friends and family, there are plenty of soul and comfort standouts ranging from the catfish to fried chicken liver.

Right next door, another spot to grab breakfast and coffee is Little Sandwich House. The cafe has a selection of open-faced toast plates, coffee drinks crafted using Grandville, MI roaster Littlefoot Coffee, and smoothies.

Late morning is a great time to explore Bronzeville’s historic residential architecture. Remaining late 19th and early 20th century Italiante, Queen Anne, Romanesque, Classical Revival, and Flemish Revival attached row houses are dispersed throughout Douglas and Grand Boulevard. Designated historic districts include the Calumet-Giles Prairie District (aka “The Gap”, named due to its surviving the urban renewal projects that leveled adjacent blocks to make way for housing developments) on Calumet, Giles, and Prairie Avenues between 31st and 36th, the Giles-Calumet District on 3700 and 3800 blocks of Giles and 3800 block of Calumet Avenue, and the Washington Park Court District between 4900 and 4959 S. Washington Park Ct. On the 3200 block of Calumet Avenue, the Roloson Row Houses were Frank Lloyd Wright’s singular row house development and among his earliest commissions after leaving Louis Sullivan’s firm. Bronzeville’s main artery and one of Chicago’s most impressive boulevards, Martin Luther King Drive is replete with ornate 19th century greystone and brownstone mansions.

Many of the homes of Bronzeville’s most famous former residents are still standing. On South MLK Drive alone, there’s the former Romanesque greystone mansion (3624 S. King Dr.) of journalist, suffragist, and civil-rights advocate Ida B. Wells-Barnett, the first kitchenette apartment (4259 S. King Dr.) of poet, author and first African-American winner of a Pulitzer Gwendolyn Brooks, the three-story greystone (4512 S. King Dr.) of the Marx Brothers, and brick mansion (4742 S. King Dr.) of Robert S. Abbott, founder and publisher of what was the country’s most prominent African-American newspaper, the Chicago Defender and the creator of the Bud Billiken Parade, the largest and oldest African-American parade in the U.S. The Chateauesque mansion at 3806 S. Michigan was the original site of the DuSable Museum of African-American History and home of its founder, the artist and activist Dr. Margaret Burroughs. In Grand Boulevard you can stroll by the former homes of Louis Armstrong at 421 E. 44th St., Nat King Cole at 4023 S. Vincennes Ave., Black Boy and Native Son author Richard Wright at 4831 S. Vincennes Ave., and Dr. Daniel Hale Williams (445 E. 42nd St.), who was the first doctor to successfully perform an open heart surgery and founder of the first non-segregated hospital in the U.S. At 4648 S. Michigan Ave. the recently restored Rosenwald Apartments were once home to boxer Joe Louis, Gwendolyn Brooks, Nat King Cole, and a young Quincy Jones.

Tyson Apartments, formerly Belmonte Flats, aka "The Kitchenette Building"

Afternoon

Though recognized as one of Bronzeville’s best breakfast spots, grabbing lunch at Peach’s Restaurant is also a good option. Since opening in 2015, the bright and welcoming diner has been a neighborhood favorite for its strong Southern-soul-diner cuisine. Popular items include the salmon croquettes with cheese grits, the catfish, duck bacon, and their peach flavored house blend coffee.

As one of a few remaining mainstays to sample classic Chicago BBQ, Honey 1 BBQ is well worth a visit. Over the years the restaurant has relocated from Austin to Bucktown and then to Grand Boulevard, where it’s found a receptive home. A steady stream of patrons drop in for the hot links, tips, ribs, and smoked chicken slow-cooked on oak wood in a glass aquarium-style smoker.

If you’re looking for a slightly lighter meal, Ain’t She Sweet Café is probably your best bet. The quaint, but bustling eatery serves up wholesome sandwiches, wraps, salads, and smoothies. Evident of its growing popularity, a second location opened in Beverly in 2016, and a third location is in the works for Woodlawn in 2018. Increasingly gaining a higher profile, in a recent promotional video, the Obama Foundation celebrated the café’s role as an important neighborhood anchor.

At the far eastern commercial space of the Rosenwald Apartments on 47th, Shawn Michelle’s has become the go-to spot for homemade ice cream. While offering a wide range of dairy and vegan flavors, the shop also has more substantial desserts like the lemon poundcake sundae and cobblers.

For many, engaging with Bronzeville’s remaining historic remnants is the main attraction. One notable surviving structure is the old Chicago Defender Building at 3435 S. Indiana Ave. The nationally circulated weekly newspaper was pivotal in promoting Chicago and other northern cities as “the promised land” for Southern Black migrants. Besides its role in the Great Migration, the Chicago Defender published the poetry of Gwendolyn Brooks and columns by Langston Hughes. At 3647 S. State St. is the former site of the Chicago Bee newspaper, founded by born slave and entrepreneur Anthony Overton. Constructed in 1929, the ornamental art-deco building was renovated and became a Chicago Public Library branch in 1996. Overton is most well-known for his prominent African-American cosmetics company headquartered down the street at the Overton Hygienic Building at 3619-3627 S. State St. Additional historic buildings are the Supreme Life Building (3501 S. King Dr.), which was home to the first Black-owned insurance company in the north and the Eighth Regiment Armory (3533 S. Giles Ave.), the first armory constructed for an African-American military regiment in the U.S.

A handful of Bronzeville’s famed musical brick and mortar landmarks have also survived. The Sunset Café at 315 E. 35th St., which later became the Grand Terrace Café, was one of the most pivotal clubs in jazz history. It was here that residents King Oliver, Louis Armstrong, Cab Calloway, and Earl “Fatha” Hines, as well as orchestra members Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker, and Nat “King” Cole were regular performers and received major exposure. At 43rd and Calumet, The Forum was a former dance hall, jazz and blues mainstay, and community gathering space. In 2011, the Bronzeville development focused non-profit Urban Juncture took ownership of the 1897 building to stave off a city demolition order.

Gospel music grew out of two converted Bronzeville synagogues. Thomas A. Dorsey began developing the gospel sound as a piano player at Ebenezer Baptist Church (4501 S. Vincennes Ave.) and brought it to prominence as musical director at Pilgrim Baptist Church (3300 S. Indiana Ave.). While the beautiful Classical Revival interior has been preserved at Ebenezer Baptist Church, only the brick and stone walls survived a 2006 fire at Pilgrim Baptist Church. Contingent on reaching ambitious fundraising goals, Pilgrim may see new life as the National Gospel Museum in the next decade.

At 3806 S. Michigan Ave., the South Side Community Art Center is a living testament to Bronzeville’s enduring arts prowess. Founded in 1940 and formally dedicated by Eleanor Roosevelt in 1941, the multidisciplinary center is notable for developing and supporting the work of acclaimed artists ranging from painters Charles White and Archibald Motley Jr., painter and printmaker Eldzier Cortor, photographer and film director Gordon Parks, poet and author Gwendolyn Brooks, and visual artist, poet, educator, and founding member Dr. Margaret Burroughs. Distinguished as the oldest remaining African-American art center in the U.S. and only remaining arts institution created under the Works Progress Administration, the center was recently designated a National Treasure by the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

Nestled in several Douglas and Grand Boulevard blocks are exceptional public art gems. Chief among them are the surviving murals of Chicago’s Black Art Movement. Inspired by the cultural impact of 1967’s “The Wall of Respect” at 43rd and Langley (torn down in 1971), master Chicago muralists depicted images of community pride and social injustice on walls scattered throughout the South Side. Preserved works by some the movement’s most well known muralists include “History of the Packinghouse Worker” (William Walker, 1974) at 4859 S. Wabash Ave., “The Wall of Daydreaming and Man’s Inhumanity to Man” (Mitchell Caton and William Walker with poem by Siddha Webber, 1975 – restored 2013) at 47th and Calumet Ave., “Black Women Emerging” (Justine DeVan, 1977) at 41st and S. Cottage Grove Ave., “The Earth is Not our Home” (Siddha Webber, 1981 – restored 2013) on the west side of 40th and MLK Dr., “Have a Dream” (Siddha Webber, 1995 – restored 2014) on the east side of 40th and MLK Dr., and “Another Time’s Voice Remembers My Passion’s Humanity” (Mitchell Caton and Calvin Jones, 1979 – restored 1993) in the Donnelley Center Community Art Garden at 3947 S. Michigan Ave. Former Chicagoan and New Orleans based artist Marcus Akinlana added the now iconic “The Great Migration” mural to the Donnelley Center Community Art Garden in 1995. Recent noteworthy additions include murals (2016) found in the interior of the Mariano’s at 38th and King Dr. by the world-acclaimed artist, Hebru Brantley and an exterior mural celebrating the legacy of Afri-cobra and the AACM (Association for the Advancement of Creative Musicians), entitled “Color Me Southside” (Dorian Sylvain, 2019).

"The Wall of Daydreaming and Man’s Inhumanity to Man"

Fittingly, there are multiple bronze sculpture pieces commemorating Bronzeville’s historic legacy on S. MLK Dr. in Douglas. At 26th Street Alison Saar’s “Monument to the Great Migration” (1994) portrays a man adorned in shoe soles heading northward. “The Victory Monument” (1927) by Leonard Crunelle at 35th St. honors an African-American regiment that served in France during WWI. Also in the median at 35th is artist Gregg LeFevre’s bronze map of the neighborhood’s historic sites. And distributed between 25th and 35th the Bronzeville Walk of Fame consists of 91 plaques celebrating influential neighborhood residents.

Building on Bronzeville’s ongoing appreciation of visual arts, Gallery Guichard is the neighborhood go-to to view contemporary work primarily focused on the African Diaspora. The 4,000-square-foot gallery has rotating exhibits every 6-8 weeks featuring works by local, national, and international artists. In addition to the gallery space, on the adjacent lot the “Migration Park” sculpture garden features a solar powered pyramid designed by Chicago artist Olusola Akintunde (aka Shala) with the help of local high school students. Situated at the corner of 47th St. and Vincennes Ave., the garden and pyramid adorned with hieroglyphic iconology are at the historic site of the legendary drinking institution, the Palm Tavern.

Like Gallery Guichard’s sculpture garden, Boxville is a growing, cutting-edge, placemaking destination. Now open 6 days a week from May to October on the lot east of the 51st Green Line Station, Boxville is an outdoor market harnessed by reused shipping containers. Core vendors of the Urban Juncture enterprise range from vegan eateries and custom apparel boutiques to a bike and skate repair shop and an onsite greenhouse. The Belgian frites stand Friistyle, one the longest running startup vendors, now has an attached brick and mortar spot around the corner. Additionally, the market hosts DJ sets, live music, and food demos.

Perhaps Bronzeville’s most well-known functionally designed space is the Illinois Institute of Technology’s (IIT) campus. Though controversial for its role in urban renewal, leveling the heart of the “The Stroll”, IIT’s grounds showcase a wealth of modernist marvels: twenty Mies Van der Rohe designed buildings including the architectural exemplar Crown Hall, Dutch architect Rem Koolhaus’ striking one-story student hub and concrete and steel tube enclosure of the Green Line coined the McCormick Tribune Campus Center, and Helmut Jahn’s deviceful State Street Village residence halls. The most recently completed modernist campus landmark is the John Ronan Architects designed Ed Kaplan Family Institute, which features an eco-design and materials for utilizing solar-power and maximizing energy efficiency.

Bronzeville’s revamped recreational spaces also employ noteworthy design. The serpentine, $23 million 35th Street Bridge leads pedestrians and bicyclists to the pristine Margaret T. Burroughs Beach and Park (31st St. Beach) and the placid Burnham Wildlife Corridor. A particularly beautiful stretch of trail heading south from 31st Beach winds through native prairie and woodlands to a hill overlook and the La Ronda Parakata sculpture. Created by artists Hector Duarte and Alfonso Nieves and commissioned by the Pilsen non-profit Casa Michoacán, the interlocking butterfly sculpture utilizes an apt migration motif.

Completed in 2016, the Ellis Park Field House is a light filled building imbued with steel and precast concrete. The 30,000 sq. foot facility includes a gym, swimming pool, fitness room, and space for clubs. Eco-friendly features such as a green roof, rain garden, and a solar thermal system for hot water were incorporated in its construction.

Evening

Since relocating from Chatham in 2015, Yassa Restaurant has been Bronzeville’s spot for excellent West African cuisine. Popular Sengalese dishes include Tiebu Djen, tilapia cooked in a tomato sauce, Yassa, chicken, fish, lamb, or shrimp grilled and marinated with onion, garlic, mustard, and lemon, Dibi, lamb or chicken grilled with a mustard sauce marinade, and Maffe, a stew consisting of lamb cubes, potatoes, carrots, and yams in a peanut butter-tomato sauce. Also worth trying are the natural beverages made from bissap (a type of hibiscus), ginger, or baobab tree fruit pods.

Another great dinner option is Pearl’s Place. The southern-style, comfort food eatery has been serving Bronzeville for over 30 years. The steady breakfast and lunch crowds pick back up for dinner to indulge on dishes such as the fried green tomatoes, fried or jerk chicken, and catfish, which can be ordered off the menu or with the dinner buffet. A hearty meal can be topped off with Pearl’s distinguished sweet potato pie.

An engaging way to spend a Bronzeville evening is attending an opening or event at Blanc Gallery. In addition to various community focused art exhibits ranging from celebrating Obama’s presidency to The Great Migration, the gallery holds artist talks, panel discussions, and benefits for local non-profits.

Featured Organization

Since the mid-2000s, community development focused Urban Juncture has been working to bring better food options, commercial opportunities, and gathering spaces for Bronzeville. In addition to its Build Bronzeville iniatives Boxville market and restoration of The Forum, Urban Jucture projects include restaurant incubator Bronzeville Cookin’ featuring the Friistyle and a rooftop garden, the Bronzeville Incubator co-working space, and the Bronzeville Community Garden.

KENWOOD & OAKLAND

January 02, 2020 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Non-indigenous settlement began in what is now Oakland in the 1840s. Proximity to Camp Douglas to the north and the development of a slaughterhouse and candle factory attracted a steady stream of early homesteaders. Just further south, Dr. John Kennicott purchased two parcels of land in the 1850s and coined the area Kenwood after his family’s “Kennicott Wood” property in Scotland. After the establishment of an Illinois Central station in 1859, Kenwood quickly filled in with lavish estates, eventually gaining the reputation as the “Lake Forest of the south”. While less pastoral, Oakland also became a fashionable neighborhood for Chicago’s professional class in the last three decades of the 19th century. By the early 1900s, Oakland had evolved into a working-class enclave, reaching its peak of racial and ethnic diversity in the 1930s with a mix of African-American, Jewish, German, English, Irish, and Japanese immigrants and migrants. Simultaneously, Jewish, Japanese, and African-American newcomers filled into Kenwood. Deteriorating conditions in the 40s in North Kenwood and Oakland were greatly exacerbated by a combination of white flight, urban renewal, and methodical segregation imposed by white neighborhood groups in conjunction with the University of Chicago. By the 1950s, 47th Street had essentially been divided between affluent “Kenwood”, which was considered an extension of Hyde Park to the south, from North Kenwood, which like Oakland had become predominately African-American. After considerable decline in the 70s through the early 80s, North Kenwood and Oakland experienced steady revitalization, mostly from an influx of middle-class African-American homeowners. In addition to the restoration of many historic single-family homes and the hard-fought establishment of two city landmark districts, the area gained impactful mixed-income housing developments as well as rehabbed CHA units such as the Lake Parc Place apartments. With the profound socioeconomic diversity, proud local businesses, exceptional historic architecture, and dynamic community organizations, Kenwood and Oakland make for compelling, contingent South Side lakefront exploration.

47th and Lake Park Ave from 1960, Chicago History Museum, ICHi-039003; J. Sherwin Murphy, photographer

A Great Day in Kenwood and Oakland

Morning

One way to begin an early morning visit to the area is stopping in the Bridgeport Coffeehouse just north of Kenwood’s southern border. The South Side roaster’s Kenwood location is bright, casual, and open to the welcoming Hyde Park Art Center. Founded in 1939 and housed in the expansive 32,000 sq. ft. facility since 2006, the art center’s inclusion, impact, and reach are felt broadly throughout the South Side and Chicago. With six galleries featuring rotating work from local, national, and international artists, free events, artist talks, and wide-ranging studio classes for all ages, the art center is a beloved and engaging community resource.

Bridgeport Coffee and Hyde Park Art Center

Upon stepping out of the Hyde Park Art Center, you can begin taking note of Kenwood’s architectural history and residential establishment of the South Side’s upper class. Just to the east, the highrise lakefront community that was developed as the Chicago Beach neighborhood, showcases two side by side art deco landmarks, the Powhatan and The Narragansett Apartments. Each of the buildings stand at 22-stories, are adorned in terra-cotta with Native American motif panels on the exterior, and were designed for the fashionable, luxury highrise living of the 20s.

Powhatan and The Narragansett Apartments

Heading north, the epicenter of the area’s prestige is on display in the historic Kenwood District. Built in 1873, the C.S. Bouton House at 4812 S. Woodlawn is the neighborhood’s oldest that hasn’t been significantly altered and is still standing. The owner of the Italianate home made his fortune as a partner in a foundry business during the city’s rebuild following the 1871 fire. Other notable homes of Chicago’s late 19th and early 20th century industry barons are Martin Ryerson’s (lumber) 1887 Romanesque mansion at 4851 S. Drexel Blvd., Dr. Jonathan McGill’s (medical patents) 1891 Chateauesque mansion at 4938 S. Drexel Blvd., Gustavus Swift’s (meat-packing) 1898 three-story mansion with a massive wrap-around porch at 4848 S. Ellis Ave, and Julius Rosenwald’s (Sears, Roebuck and Company) 1903 Prairie School mansion at 4901 S. Ellis Ave.

The southern section of Kenwood is also notable for its history of African-American prominence. One of Kenwood’s first Black residents was the celebrated lawyer Earl B. Dickerson who lived at 5027 S. Drexel Ave from 1947-1963. Dickerson was the first African-American graduate from the University of Chicago’s law school and integral in the groundbreaking Hansberry v. Lee case that legally struck down racial covenants. At the intersection of 49th and Woodlawn, Egyptian architect M. Momen designed five North-African style mansions for Nation of Islam founder Elijah Muhammad and his children and staff. In order to be closer to his Nation of Islam mentor, Muhammed Ali bought the brick mansion at 4944 S. Woodlawn, where he lived for several years in the 70s. Of course, Kenwood’s most famous site is the Obama’s Georgian rival mansion at 5046 S. Greenwood Ave., which they’ve owned since 2005.

Afternoon

For a great lunch option, you can cross 47th St. into North Kenwood and settle in at Carver 47. With its celebration of integrating nature and urban gardening and a reverence for its namesake agricultural and environmental pioneer Dr. George Washington Carver, the earthy art and plant adorned space is a nice backdrop as you sip your coffee, smoothie, or juice and wait for your food off the eclectic menu. The cafe is under the umbrella of and housed in the non-profit neighborhood staple Little Black Pearl. For 25 years, Little Black Pearl has been providing both youth and adults inclusive and impactful arts education. Though its extensive in-house and extensive outreach programming is centered around high-school age youth including functioning as a CPS public high school, there are also opportunities for adults to engage in art popups and workshops throughout the year.

Little Black Pearl, photo by Starsha Gill

A great post lunch activity is exploring the North Kenwood Multiple Resource District, which contains some of the South Side’s and Chicago’s best remaining late 19th century residential architecture. The historic district is centered around the intact attached row-house blocks of 4400 S. Berkeley Ave. and S. Ellis Ave., but also includes over 100 dispersed buildings including the former home of blues legend Muddy Waters at 4339 S. Lake Park Ave. Representative of fashionable building tastes of the era, the prevailing design motif is Romanesque Revival with rusticated stone facades. While what is now called North Kenwood was initially developed for Chicago’s burgeoning upper-middle class, the remaining patchwork of vacant lots are a reminder of the neighborhood’s midcentury through early 80s decline. Beginning in the late 80s, the revitalization, preservation of the historical character of North Kenwood-Oakland, and its emergence as a black middle-class enclave was thoroughly explored in sociologist Mary Patillo’s 2007 book Black on the Block.

While the remaining structures of the Oakland District survived within similar socioeconomic currents, they showcase their own unique architectural flourishes. In addition to over 50 surrounding structures, the core of the district are the rows of 1880s Queen-Anne cottages on the 4100 blocks S. Berkeley Ave. and S. Lake Park Ave. Complementing these quaint houses are the various sculptures that make up the Oakland Museum of Contemporary Art. Distributed among a few lots on E. 41st Pl., the organic arrangement of works of resident of the block and self-taught sculptor Milton Mizenberg helped transform this once blighted intersection in the 80s into an integrated urban sculpture park.

Adjacent to the Oakland Museum of Contemporary Art on the east side of Lake Park Ave. and 41st, a bronze Mizenberg sculpture welcomes visitors to the Williams-Davis Park and blue, twisting 41st St. Bridge. Completed in 2018, the pedestrian and bike bridge provides views of the downtown skyline and Burnham Park, and most importantly, direct access to the lakefront and Oakwood Beach.

Two other notable Kenwood parks worth visiting are Gwendolyn Brooks Park and Kenwood Park. In Brooks Park, The Oracle of Bronzeville memorial features a bust of the acclaimed South Side author and a wooden structure representing her childhood writing space. Another unique feature is the pickleball courts that are in heavy use in the warmer months. Kenwood park’s expansive lawn, ball fields, and playground is enclosed by 19th century rowhouses.

Gwendolyn Brooks Park, photo by Starsha Gill

Evening

Back on 47th St., Goree Cuisine is among the best West African restaurants in the city. Named after an island off the Sengalese coast, the restaurant specializes in fish and seafood dishes such as its tilapia, red snapper, and salmon plates. There’s also plenty of popular meat dishes like the Dibi Lamb or Brochette Chicken and vegetarian options like the Thiou Curry (carrots, potatoes, and yuca). For dessert, you can try the Sengalese staple thiakry, which is a light yogurt-millet pudding.

The best way to spend a late evening is to head down to the North Kenwood and Oakland border on 43rd St. Anchoring the commercial block that also includes Faie African Art Gallery and jewelry boutique Fort Smith, Norman’s Bistro is a great dinner option for its American creole/Brazilian fusion cuisine with popular items like the Shrimp, Chicken, and Lobster Gumbo and sides such as the corn pudding and the creole collard greens. It has also become a neighborhood institution for its live jazz events and other music acts.

EAST GARFIELD PARK

August 29, 2018 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Annexed by Chicago in 1869, the neighborhood and namesake park were originally known as Central Park. The initial William LeBaron Jenney (‘father of skyscrapers’) designed portion of the park officially opened in 1874. It was renamed Garfield Park in 1881 after President James Garfield’s assassination earlier that year. Initially Irish and Germans, then Italians and Russian Jews settled in the area to work in rail, manufacturing, and most notably at the Sears plant in bordering North Lawndale. In 1905, famed landscape architect Jens Jensen was appointed Chief Landscape Architect of the park. In addition to ushering in the groundbreaking Garfield Park Conservatory, Jensen designed the lagoon and prairie style lawns. The neighborhood experienced a post WWI boost as West Garfield Park’s bustling Madison Avenue commercial district spread east. The boom was short lived as the years during and after the Great Depression and WWII saw steady decline. Displacement from the construction of the Eisenhower Expressway, white flight, and unmaintained housing by absentee landlords eventually led to Martin Luther King Jr.’s 1966 campaign to draw attention to the grave living conditions of the segregated West Side. While local anti-slum organizations and activists worked to combat neglectful landlords and bring improved amenities to the neighborhood, the riots following MLK’s 1968 assassination left many vacant residential lots and shuttered businesses along Madison Ave., foreshadowing even steeper economic decline and population loss in the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Since the early 2000s, the neighborhood’s former industrial corridor on Carroll Ave has warehoused a variety of arts based businesses and studios. The robust creative community, esteemed community-based organizations and businesses, and proximity to rapidly appreciating nearby neighborhoods seems to be steadily increasing outsider interest. In spite of East Garfield Park’s persistent challenges, there’s a great deal to celebrate and enjoy in person.

A Great Day in East Garfield Park

Morning

Dropping in for a Bridgeport coffee and pastry at Bridge Café is a nice introduction to the neighborhood. The airy café space is housed in the non-profit community hub Breakthrough FamilyPlex on W. Carroll Ave. between Homan and Kedzie. In addition to the café, the complex provides recreational and educational programming and space for preschoolers through adults.

Late 19th and early 20th century architectural and design gems are dispersed throughout East Garfield Park. Though broken up by a profusion of vacant lots, handsome late 1800s attached rowhomes still grace the neighborhood’s residential blocks. A particularly impressive concentration of continuous rowhouses line Warren Blvd. and Nancy B Jefferson Blvd, which is the stretch of roadway renamed for the West Side community activist who helped rebuild the neighborhood after the 1960s riots. Another standout is an intact collection of 1880s Queen-Anne style rowhomes on the 2600-2800 blocks of W. Maypole Avenue.

Other noteworthy remaining structures include Our Lady of Sorrows Basilica and the Waller Apartments. The former is one of Chicago’s three basilicas and contains one of the city’s most ornate interiors. Constructed between 1890 and 1902, the marble floors and gold-leaf panels are overshadowed by the expansive, coffered (square, sunken panels) vaulted ceiling and dome. In contrast, Frank Lloyd Wright’s unassuming Waller Apartments are recognized less for their design than as one of Chicago’s first subsidized housing projects. Built in 1895, four of the original five attached townhouses are still standing on Walnut Street between Francisco and Mozart.

Afternoon

Inspiration Kitchens is a quality lunch spot with deliciously crafted dishes ranging from Gumbo to Korean Fried Chicken and Waffles. A key component of Inspiration Corporation’s mission to assist people affected by homelessness and poverty, the restaurant and free 12-week Foodservice Training Program provide participants an environment to gain hands-on culinary skills. After completing the program, graduates have access to job placement and continued professional support.

Two other galvanized lunch options are Dream Chef Kitchen near the North Lawndale border and Life Restaurant, just past the park in West Garfield Park. Both offer a balance of comfort and fresh, healthy dishes in a light and welcoming space.

For many the main draw to the neighborhood is the Garfield Park Conservatory. Opened in 1908, Jens Jenson’s novel vision of landscape design enclosed by glass has expanded to 2 acres of greenhouse rooms and 10 acres of outdoor gardens. In addition to the impressive collection of flora from around the world, the Conservatory provides extensive programming including family and children educational projects, beekeeping classes, and composting demos.

Outdoor Gardens, Garfield Park Conservatory

Garfield Park itself is a landscape architecture gem. Core elements of both William LeBaron Jenney and Jens Jensen’s designs remain including the lagoon and flower gardens. Constructed in 1928 and designated the park’s fieldhouse in 1934, the beautiful Spanish Baroque Revival Gold Dome Building houses the Chicago West Community Music Center, which provides music education to local youth.

While East Garfield Park has seen a number of former industrial spaces converted into art and design studios, there are still few venues that are open for a casual visit, and even fewer with an inviting street presence. 345 Art Gallery, however, is designed to engage the community and showcase work by featured artists. In addition to openings and rotating exhibitions, the gallery houses a wide range of community oriented events.

SOUTH SHORE

May 30, 2017 by Jason Sofianos

Background

In the 1850s, what had been vast swaths of marshland, was transformed into German and Scandinavian farming communities. In the decades that followed, British immigrant steel mill and railroad workers established various settlements, leading to the construction of the South Kenwood Station (71st and Jeffrey Blvd) on the Illinois Central line in 1881. After being annexed to Chicago in 1889 and the World’s Fair of 1893, South Shore experienced a housing boom as wealthy white Protestants began leaving the nearby Washington Park neighborhood. Having fled Washington Park due to an influx of racial, ethnic, and religious diversity, these South Shore newcomers constructed both the exclusive Jackson Park Highland district and the South Shore Country Club, which denied membership to African-Americans and Jews. The first half of the 20th century saw a major population surge as Catholic and Jewish immigrants took residence in the extensive bungalow and high-rise developments that still characterize the area. In the 1950s, African-Americans began moving to South Shore, and by the 80s it had become over 90% Black. Over the past several decades, the neighborhood has become a hub of social activism, serving as the headquarters of organizations ranging from the Black United Fund of Illinois to grassroots, youth led organizations. Through its ups and downs, South Shore has retained a mostly working and middle-class identity while benefitting from its lakefront location and proximity to Jackson Park. With its impressive historic housing stock, underrated lakefront beaches and parkland, and various community enriching local businesses and organizations, South Shore is flush with treasures to seek out.

A Great Day in South Shore

Morning

A casual and approachable spot to kick off a visit to South Shore is Give Me Some Sugah. For nearly a decade, the bakery and café has been the neighborhood go-to for coffee and a homemade pastry. The pancakes and quiche also come recommended for a more substantial breakfast. Opened in 2018, South Shore Brew is another great neighborhood option for a morning beverage and a pastry.

There’s an abundance of historic residential architecture to take in throughout the neighborhood. The most distinguished South Shore district is the Jackson Park Highlands. Commissioned in 1905, the grand homes with large front yards and setbacks represent a cross-section of fashionable early 20th century housing styles ranging from Prairie School to American Four Square. Over the years many high-profile South Siders have called the neighborhood home, including Bo Diddley, Enrico Fermi, and Jesse Jackson.

A more modest, but also noteworthy residential section is the South Shore Bungalow District. With nearly half of the homes built before 1920, many of South Shore’s bungalows showcase early manifestations of the archetype. Some of these visible defining features are the low-pitches roofs and embellishments in the brickwork and limestone detailing.

Like many other Chicago lakefront neighborhoods, South Shore has several architecturally significant residential highrises. Two neighboring buildings that were both built in 1928, are 13 stories, and have private beach access for residents are the Windsor Beach Apartments (7321 S. Shore Dr.) and Coastland co-op (2666 E. 73rd). While the Windsor Beach Apartments is replete with the terra cotta detailing that is prevalent in most art-deco highrises of the era, the Renaissance Revival Coastland is clad in granite and limestone flourishes. A point of neighborhood pride, two prized modernist residential towers designed by prominent African-American architect and Mies van der Rohe protégé John Moutoussamy (designer of The Johnson Publishing Building, aka The Ebony/Jet Building) are the Lake Terrace Apartments (7337 S. Shore Dr.) from 1952 and the Quadrangle House Condominiums (6700 S. Shore Dr.) from 1968.

Just outside the historic bungalow district are two pivotal sites of South Shore’s most illustrious former resident. The one bedroom, childhood home of Michelle Obama (Robinson at the time) still stands at 7436 S. Euclid Ave. At 7355 S. Jeffrey Blvd. is the Bouchet International School (formerly Bryn Mawr Elementary School), which she attended through eighth-grade before moving on to Whitney Young High School.

An additional neighborhood landmark is the Mosque Maryam at 7351 S. Stony Island Ave. The former Greek Orthodox church was purchased and converted into the headquarters of the Nation of Islam and largest mosque in Chicago in 1972.

Afternoon

There are a few quality spots for a wholesome midday meal. Ask any South Shore resident where to grab lunch, and they’ll most likely tell you Chef Sara’s Café. The quaint eatery prides itself on sourcing fresh ingredients for their straight-forward salads, sandwiches, and breakfast items. Just across the street, Manjani is a South Side destination for Vegan southern inspired dishes. The fast casual spot offers a nice range of vegan dishes from their signature bbq cauliflower to tacos and sandwiches. Additionally, for those looking for meatless variations of American staples, raw dishes, and smoothies, Good Foods Vegan & Vegetarian is a great place.

If you need to pick up some fresh produce, herbs, and dry goods, the Healthy Food Hub market is a great resource. Hosted every Saturday at the community event center The Quarry, the market was created to offset the lack of nearby fresh food for many South Shore residents. Over the past 10 years, the non-profit has sourced their food from local urban plots as well as farms from Michigan and Wisconsin. While the $25 annual membership is encouraged to help maintain their operations, the market is open to non-members alike.

For many, South Shore’s lakefront parks and amenities are the galvanizing attraction. One of Chicago’s more underrated and less cramped beaches, Rainbow Beach offers a large expanse of sand and arguably some of the best views of the downtown skyline. On the park grounds, there’s also an ADA compliant beach walk, dune habitat, and community garden.

Famed as the wedding reception venue for the Obamas and the exterior stand-in for the “Palace Hotel Ballroom” in The Blues Brothers, South Shore’s most well-known cultural institution is undoubtedly the South Shore Cultural Center. Since being purchased by the Park District in 1975 and shedding its infamous past as the racially exclusive South Shore Country Club, the cultural center has recast itself as a South Side cornerstone. Whether its seeing a performance by the South Shore Opera Company in the Robeson Theatre, checking out the latest exhibition in the art gallery, or attending a cultural program, camp, or class, there’s a number of ways to engage with the neighborhood’s arts community. The rarefied Mediterranean Revival building is set amid an evolving lakefront refuge. Rambling through the park space, you’ll encounter sand dunes, prairie, a bird and butterfly sanctuary, and the tranquil South Shore beach.

Evening

Another means to getting a glimpse of the cultural center’s interior is by dining at the Parrot Cage. Passing through the main lobby, the marble, crystal chandeliers, and intricate ornamentation flaunt the preservation of its opulent, early 20th-century details. While the restaurant’s décor is less ostentatious, its role as a training ground for Englewood’s Washburn Culinary Institute students gives it a unique purpose. The upscale American, student driven restaurant is relatively pricey but is BYOB for the cost-conscious drinker. A solid dinner option Thursday through Saturday, it’s also popular for its Sunday brunch.

The Jeffery Pub has the distinction as being one of the oldest Black-owned LGBTQ bars in the country. It’s been a refuge for the community since the 60s and continues to be a popular South Side drinking and entertainment oasis.

Featured Organization

Since 2008 Lost Boyz Inc. has been providing Shore Shore and neighboring youth access to mentoring, educational resources, and organized baseball programs via a sports-based development model. Established initially to fill the void of a defunct neighborhood Little League, the non-profit has grown to include softball programs for girls, on- site tutoring, and service learning to engage participating youth with their community and locations throughout the region. Year-round programming and mentoring is offered with the objective of reducing neighborhood violence and fostering positive growth and relationships. To learn more about the organization and ways to get involved, visit here.

WOODLAWN

April 10, 2017 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Prior to the World Columbian Exposition in 1893, Woodlawn was a pastoral community founded by Dutch farmers. With the fair’s location in Jackson Park, the neighborhood experienced large scale development including hotels, apartment buildings, and the extension of the ‘L’ along 63rd St. In the 20s and 30s local landlords exploited restrictive covenants, keeping Woodlawn predominately white and insular until after World War II. As the restrictive covenants were eventually deemed illegal, African-Americans began moving to Woodlawn in earnest in the 1950s. Opportunistic landlords capitalized on the limited housing available to Black families, dividing apartments into cramped units, known as ‘kitchenettes’. By the 60s, the neighborhood was mostly African-American and known for the lively jazz clubs and businesses that lined 63rd St. While the neighborhood experienced periods of decline in the subsequent decades, the expansion of the University of Chicago and its proximity to the lake and Hyde Park have led to a gradual and modest revival. With the Obama Presidential Library, restoration of Jackson Park, and the Tiger Woods designed golf course in the pipeline, Woodlawn is being touted as a neighborhood for great potential growth and transformation. Regardless of these developments, it’s already home to a substantial wealth of historic parks, locally owned businesses, cultural institutions, and organizations that merit thorough exploration.

A Great Day in Woodlawn

Morning

An enjoyable way to start a Woodlawn morning is a visit to Greenline Coffee. Opened in 2014, the sleek and modern space is adorned with subway tile, concrete floors, and a garage door that opens to the sidewalk in the warmer months. The popular neighborhood spot offers tasty breakfast items like Belgian waffles with Nutella or a breakfast sandwich on a croissant along with a variety of nicely priced beverages like the $2 bottomless coffee.

Taking a neighborhood stroll will reveal some of Woodlawn’s remaining historic landmarks. Just around the corner from Greenline Coffee, the Lorraine Hansberry House at 6140 S. Rhodes was the childhood home of the A Raisin in the Sun playwright. Her father, Carl Hansberry, a well-to-do real estate developer, bought the property in 1937 and took residence with his family despite death threats, outright hostility from neighborhoods residents, and a restrictive housing covenant prohibiting the residence of non-whites. His three-year challenge against the legality of the racially-restrictive covenant led to the pivotal U.S. Supreme Court Case Hansberry v. Lee, which ruled in Hansberry’s favor, allowing the family to stay. Lorraine Hansberry drew heavily from her and her family’s experiences in writing her groundbreaking, semi-autobiographical play.

Other notable Woodlawn structures are the old Strand Hotel and Shrine of Christ Church. The former housed the Strand Show Lounge, a prominent jazz venue where luminaries like John Coltrane, Sonny Rollins, Sonny Stitt, and Dizzy Gillespie performed. The building has recently been partially restored and converted into a mix of affordable and market rate apartments. Just a few blocks east on 64th and Woodlawn Ave., the rebirth of the Shrine of Christ Church is still in the fundraising stage for renovations after a 2015 fire destroyed most of the interior. The neo-classical church built in the 20s was spared from the wrecking ball after a community group of priests stepped in to take ownership.

Afternoon

A great place to grab some lunch is the Robust Coffee Lounge. Since 2010 the modern and spacious cafe has been offering a wide range of salads, wraps, and sandwiches as well as an extensive beverage program. True to its mission, all drinks and food items are either made in house or sourced locally from vendors such as D’amato’s Bakery (West Town), Brown Sugar Bakery (Greater Grand Crossing), Central Continental Bakery (Mt. Prospect), and Colectivo Coffee (Milwaukee).

Post lunch, an essential Woodlawn activity is visiting the innovative and engaging Experimental Station. In addition to supplying affordable long-term rental space to various local, creative businesses, the non-profit is the permanent home of Blackstone Bicycle Works and the 61st Street Farmers Market. The community bike shop provides training and experience in bike repair and sales to close to 200 youth. For quality local produce, breads, baked goods, dairy products, preserves, flowers, and herbs and spices, the 61st Street Farmers Market is among the best in the city. The outdoor market runs weekly from mid-May through October at 61st and Dorchester and moves indoors during the colder months. In addition to partnering with LINK Up Illinois to provide low-income residents access to healthy, locally sourced food, the market provides food education on-site and outreach to a neighboring elementary school.

Few would disagree that Jackson Park is the crown jewel of Woodlawn. The lower two-thirds of the park are within Woodlawn’s border at 60th Street and encompass some of Chicago’s most prized parkland. Laid out under the famed collaboration between Frederick Law Olmsted and Daniel Burnham for the World’s Colombian Expedition of 1893, some noteworthy relics and manifestations from the fair remain. Though it is a much smaller reproduction of the original sculpture that towered over “The White City”, one of the most prominent symbols of the fair is the 24-foot Statue of the Republic at the roundabout at Hayes and Richards Drive. The replica (aka “The Golden Lady”) was designed in 1918 by the original sculptor, Daniel Chester French, for the 25th anniversary of the fair.

At the park’s core is Wooded Island and the Garden of the Phoenix. During the fair, Wooded Island was home to a rose garden but is now being fully restored into a prairie garden thanks to an $8.1 million project by the Army Corps of Engineers. The Garden of the Phoenix, a Japanese garden created in 1935, was the site of the Phoenix Pavilion, a traditional structure designed and gifted by the Japanese for the World’s Fair. This Japanese-American alliance is further exemplified by last year’s unveiling of Yoko Ono’s sculpture piece “Skylanding”, which is located just outside the entrance to the gardens.

Another Jackson Park gem is 63rd St. Beach. The expansive beach and protracted pier provide beautifully tiered views of the lake, Hyde Park highrises, and downtown skyline. Equally impressive is the classical revival 63rd St. Bathing Pavilion. Built in 1919, making it Chicago’s oldest beach house, the pavilion offers shade via its loggias (open air-galleries), concessions, and an interactive play fountain for kids.

Evening

A Woodlawn must is a visit to Daley’s Restaurant, one of Chicago’s most time-tested dining institutions. Irish immigrant John Daley opened the restaurant in 1892 to accommodate the surge in foot traffic from the World’s Fair, construction of the University of Chicago, and extension of the elevated tracks. Daley sold the business to two Greek immigrants in 1918, who built the current brick and mortar structure in 1937. Relatives and descendants of these proprietors have retained ownership right up to the current day. As Daley’s sees a steady stream of patrons from the early morning through the lunchtime rush, early evening is a good time to drop in to sample their soul food-diner fare.

Taking in a musical performance, film screening, or talk at the University of Chicago’s Reva and David Logan Center for the Arts is a nice way to cap off the evening. The 11-story, 184,000-square foot building designed by noted New York architecture firm Tod Williams Billie Tsien Architects (also chosen to design the Obama Presidential Center) houses cutting-edge gallery and performance space for various free and paid events open to the general public. With its grand view of Hyde Park, Washington Park, and the Midway Plaisance, a sunset or city lit visit to the 10th floor terrace is worthwhile in its own right.

BERWYN

February 13, 2017 by Jason Sofianos

Background

The vast, predominately grassy marshland area that eventually became the city of Berwyn was originally settled as the 19th century independent communities of LaVergne, Upsala, Swedetown, and South Oak Park. The city’s identity slowly coalesced as it eventually became incorporated in 1908 to stave off being annexed into Chicago. Germans, Poles, Italians and large numbers of Czechs leaving Pilsen began flooding the city along with Cicero to the east. In the 20s and 30s, Berwyn became Chicago’s fastest growing suburb as the central section rapidly filled in with two story bungalows. Though there was another brief post WWII population surge, the city’s population leveled off in the subsequent decades. In recent years Berwyn has enjoyed increased diversity as African-Americans, Asian-Americans, and especially Latino American newcomers, mostly of Mexican descent, have taken up residence. The suburb is also home to a strong LGBTQ community, ranking behind only Oak Park and Evanston for same-sex couples and marriages. With its affordable pre-war housing stock, proximity to Chicago, and eclectic local businesses, Berwyn maintains an equilibrium of urbanity, grit, and authenticity that’s well-worth beholding.

A Great Day in Berwyn (and surrounding towns)

Morning

There are several charming coffee shops to kick the day off with a good coffee and bite to eat. Decked out in Chicago mobster kitsch, Avito Caffe specializes in caffeinated Italian drinks like Cafe Nutella and La Capannina espresso, which can be nicely paired with a breakfast panino or cannoli. Part of a complex that includes a bar, performance space, and music school, Friendly Coffee Lounge provides Bridgeport Coffee brews alongside a variety of pastries, snacks, and breakfast dishes. Mission House Café is a local favorite for their excellent coffee and food options such as the breakfast burrito, French toast, and potato and chorizo plate. Housed in a restored Victorian, the non-profit café devotes all proceeds to local institutions like the Berwyn Community Kitchen as well as global outreach initiatives in developing countries, including disaster relief, fighting sex-trafficking, and providing access to housing and clean water.

Friendly Coffee Lounge, photo by Ben Rogerson

Though Berwyn boasts an assortment of pre-war housing types, it’s best known for its extensive collection of historic, Chicago-style bungalows. Named to the National Register of Historic Places in 2015, the Central Berwyn Bungalow Historic District contains over 1300 “contributing” homes, making it one of the largest historic districts in the United States. A particularly impressive stretch that showcases a wide range of substyles and design embellishments such as detailed terracotta cladding and elaborate brick patterns is on S. Oak Park Ave. between 24th and 26th. Outside the historic district, the 3000 block of Maple Ave. and 7100 block of 31st St. contain rows of pristinely maintained bungalows with clay tile roofs.

Afternoon

A visitor has many deserving lunch destinations to mull over in Berwyn and the surrounding area. For those looking for a quick and indulgent option, Big Guys Sausage Stand is perhaps the best in town. The classic, fast food style stand on Roosevelt Road prides itself on its quality Italian sausage, bratwurst, Polish sausage, Chicken Pierre (battered chicken strips), burgers, and hand-cut fries all made from scratch. The eatery is also noteworthy for taking aim at Indiana’s discriminatory Religious Freedom Act. To contrast the GoFundMe campaign of an Indiana pizza parlor that refused to cater gay weddings, Big Guy’s 2015 “Non Bigoted Restaurant Campaign” raised funds for an anti-bullying initiative. An additional casual option for a solid Italian sausage, Italian beef sandwich, or pizza is Tonini’s Italian Market in Berwyn’s Depot District.

Just over the border in neighboring Cicero, Freddy’s Pizza is a legendary Italian grocery and restaurant combo. At its current location for close to 50 years, the neighborhood institution has perfected homemade, regional Italian pastas, chicken dishes, salads, pizza, pastries, and gelatos. Experiencing the kinetic, old-school market and deli merits a visit alone.

Cicero is also home to several excellent Latin American eateries. Café Caribe is a friendly and vibrant spot for Puerto Rican home cooking. Popular items include the arroz con grandules (rice, pigeon peas, pork, and sofrito), tostones (fried plantains), Puerto Rican and Cuban sandwiches, and café con leche. Two outstanding Mexican options are Brasas and Indio Restaurant. While both have great tortas and tacos, Brasas is special for its tasty Mexican style burgers and Indio Restaurant for its guisados (home-made stewed or braised meat dish).

For a post meal treat, there are two treasured, classic institutions in Berwyn. Owned by four generations of the same family for over 100 years and at the current location for over 50, Vesecky’s Bakery is the last of the Czech bakeries that once lined Cermak Avenue. In addition to the delicious Czech specialties like houska (sweet braided bread), rye bread, and kolacky (doughy pastry with fruit), there’s a variety of fresh coffee cakes, pound cakes, cookies, and doughnuts to choose from. Now in its 40th year in business, Gina’s Italian Ice is a nice respite from the heat in the summer months, offering homemade Italian ice and various ice cream flavors.

If you’re seeking some afternoon outdoor recreation and green space, Proska Park is the spot. The neighborhood gem features two duck ponds, a children’s garden and play area, open lawns, running and walking paths, and a meandering creek. The park also hosts a variety of programming and events including the Berwyn Brew Fest in October.

While in Berwyn, there are a number of worthwhile excursions in the neighboring towns. In Riverside, the Quincy Street Distillery is both a quaint speakeasy style bar and locale to learn about the production of artisanal spirits. Set amid late 19th and early 20th century buildings and leafy, winding, gas lit streets laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted (designer of New York’s Central Park and Prospect Park and Chicago’s Jackson Park and Washington Park), the craft distillery utilizes historical recipes to create their acclaimed whiskeys and gins. After a tour and tasting or just a few drinks at the bar, a stroll through the Riverside Historic District reveals homes and structures designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan, and William Le Baron Jenney.

Riverside Water Tower (1870), photo by Ben Rogerson

If you're already in Riverside, just one hop farther west in Brookfield is the Ghalloping Ghost Arcade. The expansive, vintage quirk of the arcade can only be truly appreciated in person. With over 550 rare and classic video games, it is the largest in the U.S. and one of the largest in the world. While welcome to the casual and novice, close to 200 world records are held by the avid regulars and destination visitors.

Evening

In the past several years, a number of new restaurant additions have broadened Berwyn’s culinary landscape. On Roosevelt, Autre Monde is lauded for its Mediterranean inspired flatbreads, pastas, and pintxos (Basque style small plates), as well as its extensively curated wine and spirits program. In the Depot District, Oliver’s offers a range of American and International dishes, with an emphasis on fresh seafood, prime cuts, and seasonal farm to table ingredients. Filling another neighborhood void, Lavergne’s Tavern provides quality, chef driven bar food and a vast beer menu.

Befitting of a community and local government that fosters and celebrates the arts, the quality of Berwyn’s late evening cultural and entertainment options punches above its weight for a small suburban city. The 16th Street Theater is not only extolled for its track record of delivering first-rate plays that reflect the increasing diversity of the area, but also for being a community oriented, Equity theater that prioritizes lower ticket prizes and fair wages for its artists. For a lively night out of mariachi followed by an eclectic DJ set, you can join the crowds packed into the bar at Lalo’s Restaurant. In the Depot District, The Outta Space is a relatively new arts venue and bar with excellent evening programming ranging from improv classes, readings, art shows, and live music. And, of course, legendary Fitzgerald’s Nightclub is a reliable institution to take in high-quality American roots music from jazz to zydeco.

WEST RIDGE (WEST ROGERS PARK)

January 09, 2017 by Jason Sofianos

Background

While evidence of a large prehistoric Native American village was unearthed in 2013 during construction of the West Ridge Nature Preserve, the first well-known settlements in the area were Potawatomi villages established in the 1600s. Several treaties led to their forced displacement in the early 19th century, allowing German and Luxembourger farming communities to take root by the 1840s. Disputes, mostly over using tax revenue to fund parks, incited the “Cabbage War” between the increasingly urban Rogers Park to the east and bucolic West Ridge (where a lot of cabbage was grown). The conflict resulted in the designation of West Ridge as a village in 1890, and its ultimate annexation into Chicago in 1893. The completion of the North Shore Channel in 1910 and boom in the brickyard industry attracted German and Scandinavian newcomers. Extensive bungalow and two-flat developments catered to the middle-class facilitated an even larger population surge after World War I. The Devon Avenue commercial district coalesced in the post war period as demand for access to goods and services increased. West Ridge again experienced considerable growth after World War II as first and second generation, Russian, and Polish Jews flooded the area. Since the 1960s, Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Assyrian, and Korean immigrants have contributed to the pronounced diversity of the residential population. With over 40 languages spoken and its robust ethnic business community, West Ridge, or West Rogers Park as it is known interchangeably, is a neighborhood that celebrates multiculturalism and connecting Chicagoans to the broader world.

A Great Day in West Ridge (West Rogers Park)

Morning

A visit to one of several acclaimed bakeries is a nice way to begin an exploration of the neighborhood’s international cuisine. For the last 80 plus years, Levinson’s Bakery has been providing quality breads and pastries on Devon Avenue. In addition to Jewish mainstays like challah (traditional braided bread) and babka (sweet yeast cake), popular items include the pistachio cannoli and chocolate chip strudel. Jagodinka Bakery & Café is a highly recommended destination for a superb sweet or savory Serbian crepe or pastry like the apple walnut puff.

Most of West Ridge lies within the historic Northside “Bungalow Belt”. A stroll through the Rogers Park Manor Historic District reveals some of Chicago’s most elaborate 1920s bungalows. Particularly impressive are the 2500 block of W. Morse Ave. and 2600 blocks of W. Farwell Ave. and W. Coyne Ave. with rows of homes adorned with polygonal front bays and art glass windows.

Afternoon

It’s no secret that Devon Avenue is the Midwest’s epicenter of South Asian cuisine, but selecting the best lunch choice may require some consideration. Uru Swati is popular for visitors seeking a range of vegetarian items on a budget. The BYOB spot serves up both North and South Indian street food staples such as dosas (pancake/crepe), parathas (flatbread), samosas, vadas (fritters or dumplings), puris (deep-fried bread), and various other chaats (savory fried snacks made from dough). Just across the street, Annapurna, which has been serving the community for over 30 years, is another solid vegetarian, street food inspired option.

For those looking for more substantial dishes, JK Kabab House and Anmol Barbecue Restaurant are outstanding. The former is prized for their slow cooked kababs like the Bihari (marinated beef), chili chicken platter, and paneer kathi roll (cheese and mixed vegetables in a chappati bread roll), all served with a complimentary cup of sweet corn soup. Recognized as among Chicago’s best Halal eateries, Anmol Barbecue Restaurant provides high caliber Pakistani-style bbq standards such as Chicken Makhani (butter chicken), Chicken Boti (dark meat), Chicken Tikka (white meat), and Seekh Kabab (minced beef).

West Ridge is also home to a handful of Middle Eastern and Eastern European spots. Taza Bakery is a worthy destination for their tasty zataar (Middle Eastern herb mix) and cheese manakish (Levantine pizza) with a cup of Turkish coffee. Another restaurant to enjoy a good Turkish coffee but instead accompanied with excellent Balkan cuisine is Bina’s Café. The unassuming eatery features signature Bosnian-Serbian-Croatian dishes like burek (flaky savory pie) and cevapi (sausage). For dessert, the baklava or palachinka crepe will top off a satisfying dining experience.

The neighborhood has some reliable outposts for indulgent American fare as well. With its rustic aesthetic and southern style BBQ, a visit to Rub’s Backcountry Smokehouse is like being transported to Tennessee or Texas. In addition to the brisket burger and Texas tacos, the BBQ staples, and the ribs in particular, are competitive with any BBQ spot in the city.

Anyone who has taken the #84 bus or driven on Peterson Avenue between California and Washtenaw has gawked at the kitschy hot dog on a fork sign hovering over Wolfy’s parking lot. The classic fast-food joint has been serving broiled and charred Chicago-style hot dogs since 1967 and is still considered among the best hot dog stands in the city.

There are a number of excellent bakeries for an afternoon confection or snack. Both Ajwaah Sweets and Pak Sweets and Bakery are solid options for barfi (milk based candy), laddu (doughy sweet ball), and halwa puri (chickpea, semolina, and bread). To sample delicious savory standards from the Caucasus region of Eurasia like khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), pelmeni (dumpling), and chebureki (deep-fried turnover), Argo Georgian Bakery may be your best bet in Chicago. Tel Aviv Kosher Bakery is a reliable source for Ashkenazic treats such as rugelach (doughy pasty) and potato kugel (casserole).

Perusing the colorful shops along Devon Avenue is an essential West Ridge activity. With its amiable owners and beautiful Indian textiles, jewelry, and home décor, Reshams has been a neighborhood favorite for over 30 years. In addition to the wide selection of saris, India Sari Palace is a popular draw for their scarfs, shawls, blouses, and high quality fabrics. For the opportunity to check out an auto rickshaw and exquisite handmade Pakistani jewelry, clothing, and various handicrafts, Shop N’ Help is well-worth a visit. All proceeds from the shop go directly to the organization Helping Hand for Relief and Development (HHRD), which provides disaster relief, education support, infrastructure development, and access to health care for those in need in the U.S. and over 20 countries abroad. Patel Brothers Grocery is a must to pick up South Asian spices, frozen Indian food, and homemade chappati (flatbread).

Another way to spend part of an afternoon is some outdoor recreation at one of the neighborhood’s beloved parks. Situated on what was a territorial border between the Pottawatomie and encroaching settlers, Indian Boundary Park is a serene, community gem. The 13-acre park includes a charming Tudor-revival fieldhouse, lagoon, picnic groves, massive wooden play structure, kids’ water feature, and Nature Play Center. Opened in 2015, the West Ridge Nature Preserve is a tranquil respite of woods, wetlands, walking paths, and a 5-acre pond. Located on a historically undeveloped 21-acre plot of Rosehill Cemetery, the new preserve is great for fishing, bird watching, and taking in the restored native flora.

Evening

Globe-spanning dinner options that abound in the neighborhood are a major source of West Ridge’s evening bustle. Two recent South Asian additions on Devon Avenue bringing in a steady stream of customers are Nepal House and Bundoo Khan. While there is an extensive selection of Indian appetizers and entrees on the menu, sampling the palatable Nepalese dishes is the true draw at Nepal House. Popular Nepalese fixtures include Vegetable or Chicken Momo (dumplings), Jhaneko Dal (lentils), Aloo Ra Seemi Ko Tarkari (potatoes and green beans), and goat dishes like Goat Sekuwa (cooked in Tandor) and Nepali Khasi (stew). With its mastery of Karachi style BBQ, satisfying entrees like aloo bhendi (potato and okra), and the delicious Mango Lassi (yogurt drink), Bundoo Khan has garnered a good deal of buzz and praise.

Another excellent newcomer is Simi’s Restaurant on Western just south of Devon. Providing Nigerian favorites such as spicy pepper soup, dun dun (fried yam with red stew), jollof rice (spicy, tomato puree), and various stews, the unobtrusive eatery attracts both West Africans looking for a taste of home and those in the know of Simi’s great food. Additional plusses are the affable and attentive staff and that it’s BYOB.

Two distinguished East Asian spots that grace the neighborhood are Gogi and Katsu. Widely acknowledged as among the best Korean BBQ restaurants in the city, Gogi offers patrons the opportunity to cook high quality cuts of samgyeopsal (pork belly), galbi (beef ribs), dwaeji galbi (pork ribs), and dak galbi (chicken) on either a wood charcoal or gas powered grill. The BBQ proteins come with quality banchan (side dishes, mostly made from fermented vegetables) and can be nicely paired with a Hite (Korean lager), Hitachino (Japanese wheat beer), or soju cocktail. For close to 30 years, Katsu has been revered as a premier sushi institution. The modest storefront and low-key atmosphere is juxtaposed with the impeccable sashimi omakase (chef’s choice), nigiri, and maki. Katsu stands out for the freshness of their fish, including yellowtail, bluefin tuna, and mackerel.

For terrific Colombian and Latin American food in tandem with live music, a visit to Sabor a Café is enjoyable way to devote an evening. Every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night, national and international Latin, jazz, and blues bands take the stage in front of an intimate audience. Though taking in the music may be the main attraction, the several steak dishes, arepas (maize patty), and empanadas come highly recommended.

Taverns in West Ridge are few and far between, which makes Cary’s Lounge an especially valuable neighborhood drinking oasis. The welcoming Devon Avenue anomaly has been around since the early 70s. Just some of its charms include its eclectic interior, friendly bartenders and patrons, and spacious back patio.

If you need some Indo-Pak food to cap off your night, Ghareeb Nawaz is your place. The fast food style joint provides tasty standards like palak paneer (spinach, tomato gravy, and cheese), dal, butter chicken, chili chicken, and biryanis (mixed rice dish), along with Mediterranean sandwiches and gyros for their loyal Middle Eastern customers. Best of all, it’s open 24 hours, and nearly every item on the menu is under $5.

Featured Organizations

The Indo-American Heritage Museum (IAHM) promotes awareness of the history and contributions made by Indian Americans from the 1790s to today. Through the virtual galleries, guided Devon Avenue tours, and cultural programing including dance, music, and theater performances, film screenings, and presentations and discussions, the museum is a vital resource to engage with the community. IAHM’s next exhibition “Beyond Bollywood” will be on display at the Field Museum in July.

An additional community anchor is the Indo-American Center (IAC). Serving Chicagoland immigrant groups from over 20 countries, the IAC provides adult literacy, civics, and computer education courses, citizenship and immigration services, and a range of programs supporting residents, from youth to seniors.

LITTLE VILLAGE (LA VILLITA)

November 14, 2016 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Settlement of the South Lawndale community area began in the immediate years following the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 by German, Irish, and various Eastern European immigrant communities. Bohemians, fleeing overcrowding in Pilsen to the east, had become the predominant ethnic group by WWII. The bustling neighborhood centered around 26th street became known as “Czech California”. In the second half of the 20th century, as most Bohemian, Polish, and other Eastern European residents gravitated west past the city limits to Cicero and Berwyn, the area increasingly became resettled by Latino immigrants, mostly of Mexican descent. While the initial wave were mostly migrants from Pilsen, by the 1990s, Little Village had become the primary entry point for newly arriving Mexican immigrants to Chicago and the Midwest. Technically, South Lawndale is made of up both Marshall Square to the east of Kedzie Ave. and Little Village to the west, but most residents refer to entire area as “La Villita”. With 26th Street as its commercial anchor, which is the city’s second-highest-grossing shopping strip after only the Magnificent Mile, Little Village has the energy and density of a major city, but with a close-knit community of independent businesses and non-profits that make it one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in Chicago.

A Great Day in Little Village (La Villita)

Morning

Tackling the neighborhood’s wealth of fantastic eateries can begin as early as daybreak. Serving up a variety of Mexican egg dishes, from chilaquiles to huevos rancheros, and a wide range of coffee and fruit based beverages, La Catedral Café is an inviting breakfast destination. While the interior space was staged as the bakery for the filming of Stranger than Fiction, it’s currently a canvas for religious relics donated from friends and customers. Another good breakfast option is Los Candiles. The quaint neighborhood spot adorned with artesian crafts and photos of early Mexican cinema stars is well-known for their excellent huevos divorciados (fried eggs covered with green and red sauce).

There are several options for a leisurely post-breakfast walk. Though part of Chicago’s extensive boulevard system, Marshall Boulevard and 24th Boulevard are unique in that the buffer of park space extends from the sidewalk fronting the prewar brick and Greystone two flats, single family homes, and apartment buildings all the way to the main roadway. Without the interruption of an inner arterial road, these boulevards feel even more “parklike” than their counterparts in other neighborhoods.

A great way to get to know Little Village better is by ambling down 26th St. and crisscrossing many of the residential blocks between Cermak and 31st St. in search of the neighborhood’s impressive murals. Some of the most notable include Jeff Zimmerman’s “Un Milagro” (3050 W. 26th St.) depicting residents of Little Village, Epifanio Monarrez’s “Aztec Princess” (3800 block of W. 31st St.), and the Yollocalli Arts Reach commissions “With All of Our Might” (2801 S. Ridgeway), “Loyal Yolotl” (W. 28th and Lawndale), and “Flower Shop” (W. 25th and Cristiana).

Afternoon

While lunch options may seem limitless, narrowing down the best taquerias by their signature items can help inform your decision. La Chaparitta Grocery is the spot for tripa (small intestine) and longaniza (pork sausage) tacos. Taqueria los Barilitos and Atotonilco Restaurant are reliable purveyors of high quality al pastor (Middle Eastern influenced, shawarma style pork) and carne asada. For excellent gorditas (Mexican savory pastries), Los Olivos is among the best in the city. Taqueria El Milagro provides fresh tortillas straight from the factory next door. For those looking for a variety of quality vegetarian dishes, El Faro Restaurant is a great choice.

There are also plenty of dessert focused establishments for an after lunch confection. Azúcar offers a wide variety of ice cream, sorbets, smoothies, and shakes infused with traditional Mexican ingredients such as guayaba (guava), elote (corn), mango, chile, and lime. Refreshing Mexican drinks like horchata (sweet rice) and jamaica (hibiscus) are also popular menu items. With a staggering selection of imported Mexican candy, party favors, and piñatas, Dulcelandia is a must visit. Behind the various candy displays, each wall contains a different mural representing the candy’s cultural significance: the Mayans’ discovery of chocolate, an interpretation “Mexican Candyland” with an exploding piñata, and upcoming commission by Chicago artist Naomi Martinez of a sugar skull. Additionally, the broad, colorful space now houses Yogolandia Yogurt and Botana Bar, which provides Mexican inspired frozen yogurt flavors and ingredients including churro, flan, marzipan, and pepino (cucumber) as well as some savory snacks.

For a shopping experience and environment modeled after markets in Mexico, Little Village Discount Mall is well worth a visit. Among the more than 100 booths that fill the expansive space, a patron can find items as wide ranging as Mexican handcrafts, Western wear, kids’ mariachi suits, top of the line accordions, quinceañera dresses, and even a scarlet macaw.

Another exceptional institution within the South Lawndale boundary is Working Bikes. Not only is it one of city’s best spots to pick up a recycled and refurbished bicycle or get bike repairs, but the proceeds from sales support their tremendous outreach. Each year the organization sends thousands of recycled bikes to various countries in Latin America and Africa, as well as donates bikes for those in need locally.

Serving as one of the neighborhood’s only brick and mortar gallery and art spaces, OPEN Center for the Arts is an outstanding venue to appreciate both the community’s creative output and curated work coming from all over the U.S. and abroad. Opened in 2014, the former storefront and apartment building is now home to the theater program Teatro Americano, art and dance classes, and rotating exhibits including the current “We Are All Migrants”, an exhibition of 50 selected poster submissions from graphic designers around the world.

With Little Village’s density and industrial heritage, neighborhood green spaces are actively cherished. One of the best examples is La Villita Park, a 22-acre expanse featuring five athletic fields, a skate park, basketball courts, and a massive playground. Formerly a toxic brownfield, the celebrated park came about after years of advocating by the Little Village Environmental Justice Organization (LVEJO) and collaboration between the non-profit, the Chicago Park District, and residents. Just across the street of the park’s northwest border, LVEJO organized another brownfield conversion to the Semillas de Justicia Community Garden. A range of programming is offered, including educational workshops throughout the year and weekly community potlucks during the warmer months.

A neighborhood gem for younger kids is the nature play garden, Jardincito. The small nature park emphasizing children’s interaction with natural structures made of wood and stone resulted from the alliance of neighborhood groups, the Trust for Public Land, and Chicago’s land trust non-profit, NeighborSpace.

Evening

A visit to two of Little Village’s oldest Mexican-American owned businesses is a memorable way to cap off the day. Nuevo León has been providing the community northern Mexico style cuisine for over four decades. With the fire and closing of the Pilsen location last year, the 26th St. site is even more prized as a family-style, sit-down destination. The flour tortillas made in-house, signature entrees, and warm, attentive service are just part of what maintains their loyal customer base.

Jacaranda Bar has been a dependable watering hole since the 1960s. The neighborhood institution is revered by locals and visitors for the welcoming, friendly bartenders and stellar micheladas.

Featured Organization

Enlace Chicago has been working to improve the lives of Little Village residents since 2008. Formerly the Little Village Community Development Corporation, whose first Executive Director was Jesus “Chuy” Garcia, the organization’s contributions include, among others, free legal and immigration services, fair housing advocacy, promoting community schools and college assistance, and a series of violence prevention programs. For more information and volunteering options visit here.

GREATER GRAND CROSSING

October 10, 2016 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Greater Grand Crossing acquired its name after an 1853 train accident occurred at the intersection of two competing rail lines, the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern Railway and the Illinois Central Railroad. What was open swampland and prairie gave way to development that hosted waves of European immigrants from the British Isles, Germany, Sweden, and Italy. As with the surrounding neighborhoods, Greater Grand Crossing had become a predominately middle-class, African-American community by the 1950s. At its heart is the 75th Street commercial district, also known as “Renaissance Row”, which runs from S. Cottage Grove Ave. to S. Michigan Ave. The neighborhood is home to some of the South Side’s most beloved locally owned businesses, innovative community organizations, historic park spaces, and rows of quaint, bungalow-lined residential streets.

A Great Day in Greater Grand Crossing

Morning

A good way to begin taking in the neighborhood is sampling some of its rich cuisine. Tucked into a relatively small storefront space, 5 Loaves Eatery is a welcoming and charming breakfast/brunch spot on 75th Street. From the Southern style catfish nuggets, salmon croquettes, and fried chicken to the standard breakfast items such as pancakes and omelets, the family owned eatery provides superb food with great service.

To work off a bit of breakfast, an excursion to either Oak Woods Cemetery or the Auburn Park Lagoon makes for a unique Chicago experience. In addition to the beautiful grounds, Oak Woods Cemetery is the resting place of such historic luminaries as Jesse Owens, gospel-originator Thomas A. Dorsey, nuclear physicist Enrico Fermi, founder of Ebony and Jet John H. Johnson, suffragist and civil rights activist Ida B. Wells, and the first African-American mayor of Chicago, Harold Washington.

Formerly a marshy wetland, the 8-acre Auburn Park in the nearby Auburn Gresham neighborhood is worthwhile for a leisurely walk or fishing spot.

Afternoon

Perhaps the most popular sit down lunch option, Original Soul Vegetarian has been a family owned, neighborhood destination for over three decades. The pioneer vegan/vegetarian institution offers a wide range of healthy dishes and meat free versions of soul and comfort food staples. The attached Eternity Juice Bar has a nice selection of shakes and fruit and vegetable drinks. Fans of Original Soul Vegetarian can also visit their recently opened location Vegan Now! in the French Market downtown.

For a post meal dessert, Brown Sugar Bakery delivers a variety of delicious choices. While known for their cakes, the cupcakes, pies, and cookies all hit the spot. As a sign of the bakery’s increasing popularity, it was selected to open a second location at Navy Pier’s new food court, along with other local Chicago eateries.

Further east down 75th Street, The Woodshop is another neighborhood stalwart and must-see. Now in its 5th decade, the custom frame and cabinet shop also houses an impressive art gallery featuring works by African-American, African, and Caribbean artists.

An additional artfully crafted space to meander through is the Stony Island Arts Bank. One of several deteriorating structures in Greater Grand Crossing repurposed by the Rebuild Foundation, the former savings and loan bank at 68th and Stony Island is now home to among other cultural artifacts, the Johnson Publishing Archive, the University of Chicago Glass Lantern Slides, and House Music legend Frankie Knuckles’ vinyl collection. The rotating exhibitions and building tours have been drawing a steady stream of visitors since its reopening in October 2015.

Evening

Back on 75th Street, a visit to Greater Grand Crossing would not be complete without stopping by Lem’s Bar-B-Q. Family owned since 1954, the 75th Street location, which opened in 1968, is currently Lem’s sole brick and mortar operation. The legendary institution is often credited with establishing Chicago style BBQ and well-known for its rib tips, hot links, and distinct sauce.

For a late evening option, the eta Creative Arts Foundation is a great venue to enjoy theater productions pertaining to the African-American experience. Founded in 1971, the non-profit also showcases rotating artists in their gallery space and facilitates training and performance opportunities for both youth and adults.

Likewise, Rebuild Foundation's Black Cinema House offers engaging programming several evenings a month. The film screenings and discussions take place in a repurposed Anheuser-Busch distribution facility.

Featured Organization

Since 2006, the Gary Comer Youth Center has been providing wide ranging extracurricular activities and educational support for youth in the neighborhood and the greater South Side. Housed in an award winning building designed by John Ronan Architects, the center also hosts the South Shore Drill Team and special events throughout the year. In addition to the state of the art facilities, their large Youth Education Garden across the street on S. Chicago Ave. serves as a hands-on resource to complement the horticulture and culinary programs. To learn more about enrollment, special events, and volunteer opportunities, visit here.

ANDERSONVILLE

September 18, 2016 by Jason Sofianos

Background

Originally a cherry orchard and farming village named Somerdale, the neighborhood centered around the Clark Street commercial district was founded by Swedish immigrants in the second half of the 19th century. Though still home to several Swedish businesses, Andersonville is now noteworthy for its diversity of residents and locally owned businesses. Since the 80s the neighborhood has been home to one of Chicago’s largest LGBTQ communities and several Middle-Eastern restaurants and businesses. The Andersonville business area, which in 2010 was named a National Historic District, also contains a variety of increasingly upscale restaurants, coffee shops, and boutique furniture stores. Additionally, the neighborhood is recognized for its sustainability and green initiatives. Through its eco-Andersonville program, the Andersonville Sustainable Community Alliance rolled out the city’s first comprehensive composting program, creates incentives for sustainable businesses and green building, and is responsible for the popular placemaking spots that pop up on Clark Street in warmer months.

A Great Day in Andersonville

Morning

Though there are a number of great neighborhood breakfast spots to choose from, Svea and m.henry are two standouts. As the last Swedish restaurant left in Andersonville, Svea provides Scandinavian inspired comfort food in a quaint diner for those on a budget. The Swedish pancakes and lingonberries are a popular staple worth trying. For a slightly more pricey option, m.henry is among the most acclaimed breakfast/brunch institutions in town. With its New American concept that features locally produced and organic ingredients, there are an array of appetizing sweet and savory dishes to choose from.

After a big breakfast, a stroll through Andersonville’s residential blocks will reveal more of its appeal. The blocks of Wayne, Lakewood, and Magnolia between Foster and Bryn Mawr of the Lakewood Balmoral Historic District are particularly impressive. The stately homes built mostly between the decades before and after the turn of the century feature an eclectic mix of Flemish, Gothic, Queen Anne, Arts & Crafts, Prairie, and American Foursquare forms.

Afternoon

For lunch, Taste of Lebanon is a terrific budget option. The solid quality of the falafel, shwarma, salads, and lentil soup, all for under $5, have established a loyal customer base. For a more leisurely lunch accompanied by a glass of wine or two, Pastoral/Apellation has a nice selection of sandwiches, salads, artisanal breads and cheeses.

Perhaps, the neighborhood’s most popular activity is meandering through the historic commercial district. Clark Street is lined with unique local businesses to explore from Winnemac to Victoria. Women & Chrilden First has been an anchor for the neighborhood for decades and is among the largest feminist bookstores left in the country. In addition to its extensive stock of books and retail items, the store serves as important event space for children’s, LGBTQ, and feminist writers and story-tellers. To pick up some hard to find ingredients, pastries, and snacks, the Middle East Bakery & Grocery has long been a neighborhood outpost. The recently opened attached café and restaurant has brought even more Middle Eastern dining options to the neighborhood.

Off Andersonville’s beaten track, a drop in or tour at Koval, which when opened was Chicago’s first distillery since the 1800s, is a nice way to spend an afternoon. The locally produced “organic grain to barrel” whiskey, liqueurs, and spirits make a great gift or neighborhood souvenir.

A visit to the Swedish American Museum is perhaps the best way to take in a bit of the neighborhood’s history and cultural roots. The permanent and rotating exhibits explore the plight of Swedish and other immigrant groups while the Children’s Museum gives kids a place to experience the immigrant experience.

For a good pastry or slice of pie, Andersonville has an abundance of options. Swedish Bakery has been serving up European style pastries and cakes since the late 1920s. Popular items include the Andersonville coffeecake, cardamom coffeecake, and Swedish cookies. Just around the corner on Ashland, First Slice Café has a variety of stellar pies to choose from, while helping to feed families in need and the homeless with home cooked meals. The proceeds from the café support its charity operations, which also include a small job training program. Another great option is The Coffee Studio, where you can enjoy a pastry with an award-winning coffee in an artfully designed space. The locally-roasted, hand-crafted coffees have been a neighborhood favorite for over a decade.

Evening and Late-Night

With plenty of good restaurants to choose from, it may be a challenge narrowing down dinner options, but here are a few worth considering. Jin Ju, the contemporary Korean outpost, is a nice spot for both its quality dishes and dark but inviting interior. For a bit more upscale farm-to-table experience, Vincent is among the best in the city. A strong collection of craft beers and cocktails complement the Dutch inspired cuisine. Another establishment that combines an extensive drink program with quality food is Little Bad Wolf. Though anything off the menu is solid, the baos are highly recommended.

A night out in Andersonville is best curated by a visit to two of the neighborhood’s best drinking institutions. Since the early 90s, the Hopleaf has been a popular destination for its extensive beer selection and gastropub aesthetic. In addition to the strong drink selection and being a nice respite from Chicago’s ubiquitous TV encrusted bars, the Belgian inspired dishes are prized. For many, Simon’s Tavern is the stalwart institution of the neighborhood. The one time speakeasy has been open since 1934 with a loyal following that continues to this day. Visitors can appreciate the historic charm accompanied with welcoming bartenders and a celebrated jukebox selection.

Other quintessential Andersonville late evening options include attending an event at either The Neo-Futurarium or Mary’s Attic. Since the 80s, the Neo-Futurists have been providing a dynamic and unique experimental theater experience to Chicago audiences. Chicago’s longest running show, now on its 27th consecutive year, Too Much Light Makes the Baby Go Blind is the 30 plays in 60 minutes performance that the group is best known for. Every Friday and Saturday night a line running south from Foster on Ashland forms of eager patrons. On the second floor of the complex that includes Hamburger Mary’s and Andersonville Brewing, Mary’s Attic hosts a variety of entertaining weekly events such as theater and musical performances and the raucous MaryOke.